From:
http://hespokestyle.com
IT’S A GAME OF PROPORTIONS
Today, we’re pleased to introduce you to another new face in our growing cast of characters here on HSS. I first met David Petr three years ago. He was involved in the early design stages of the iteration of the HSS website you see today. Since then, he’s become the Visual Design and Marketing Director with our friends from Michael Andrews Bespoke. We hope you enjoy David’s style as well as what he has to say. Please welcome him! -BTS
Coming from a background in visual design, business development, and creative direction, I’ve always had a tediously practical way of approaching the world. Working in men’s fashion, particularly the high-end world of bespoke clothing, these OCD tendencies have had an effect on the personal styling and construction of my wardrobe. One question I regularly receive about my sport coats and suits is, “What makes you decide to go with only one button on your jacket.” And, just like my approach to work and art, the answer is simplistically complex.
I choose the one-button jacket for a number of reasons. In many ways, it’s a snowball effect based on my body type and personal preferences. It all starts with the lapels. I’ve always had an issue with the skinny lapel trend that became “a thing” and continues to linger to this day. It’s one thing if you’re a very slim guy with a narrow shoulder measurement. However, when you’re 6’2” and over 200 pounds, a narrow lapel can make you seem larger in a not so flattering way. It’s a game of proportions.
The perfect balance is dead center between the roll of the lapel and the shoulder, but going slightly wider helps create a slimming effect as the lapel travels down the garment. For most of my jackets, I roll with a 3.5-4” lapel width.
Once you widen the lapel, it begins to have an effect on the visual aspect of the button stance. Again, a lot of this is personal preference, but when the lapel gets wider, the button stance should go lower – especially when you’re a taller guy. A lower button stance results in both buttons on a two-button jacket shifting down. Because the buttons end up closer together, I choose to remove the bottom button entirely.
The second reason I have for only using a one button jacket configuration is a direct response to the quality of the fabric. When you enter the world of luxury suiting – a suit that is truly bespoke and not off the rack – the fabrics used become these beautiful works of art, each woven with a master level of precise care. Mills such as Loro Piana, Scabal, Dormeuil, and many others spend countless hours working on their collections each year. I hate to interrupt the flow of the fabric with a button that, let’s face it, should never be fastened in the first place.
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